Quiet Photography – Bet Giyorgis Rock Church
by John Downey
As previously mentioned, I travelled to Lalibela in Amhara state, Ethiopia to photograph this historical town. I knew the inclement weather would be challenging but it was just good to get out of Addis Ababa for a couple of days. I spent almost three hours wandering around Bet Giyorgis, an isolated Orthodox Christian church hewn from solid, red volcanic rock. It’s the off season, so for this wet Friday afternoon, I was the only foreigner at the church. Usually, the priests or guards kick everyone out at 1pm, the start of prayer, but I managed to keep quiet and not get in the way. After I shot the above image, it started to rain so I descended to the second anteroom, following the priest below, and set up the tripod by the large door.
Just waited.
And a few walked in.
The man below stayed the entire time I was there. He murmured for about an hour and then the high priest appeared through a haze of blue incense and motioned for the guy to fetch what looked like a leather pouch. After retrieving and handing it to the priest, he backed up and knelt, then continued to hang out by the door. The result are these images which I like because the series shows a progression of events, summed in the towering church over this guy in the doorway.
Getting the frame below was another matter. The woman is the same one above in the doorway. She was suspicious the entire time, but I made a careful approach, somehow communicated I wanted a picture of her showing the Bible and hands.
End of prayer.









Love the picture of the lady with the bible. Really cool!
John – Those were terrific shots and I liked the way you captured the spontaneity of the locals. It comes across as more of “a day in the life” type photography. Thanks for sharing.
simple beauty … these are amazing John.
Such incredible photos — truly an appropriate use of black and white imagery. Love these!
:)
Love these photos. Someplace I’d love to visit in the future. Isn’t this where the Arc of the Covenant is supposed to be? Do you think it’s there?
yes !its there u better go check it out.
Thank you for sharing. It’s an amazing church and you captured some great moments.
Amazing pictures. My fiance is half Ethiopian. We would both loved to travel there one day.
They are very simple, but they say a lot. They are beautiful.
I’ve long thought this should be one of the wonders of the world. The work that went into carving this church out of the rock as they worked down, and removing all the cuttings as they worked, with very simple hand tools alone. Think about it a little !
Oh wow! That place is unbelievable! I can’t even imagine how long it must have taken to carve that church with such rudimentary tools to do so. The history behind this place must be astounding…thanks so much for sharing your photos. :)
I loved your photos! Great job and wonderful post :)
superb photos. thanks for taking us to ethiopia.
Amazing stuff, and nice shots.
Congrats on being freshly pressed
Rob
Rob, thank you. Wouldn’t have known it if you didn’t mention.
Cheers,
John
Beautiful… just beautiful… great commentary on everything… Your waiting paid off… In the early daze of hip-hop they used to call that “waiting in the cut” … like a needle riding in the groove of a record… Really nice work…
Thanks for the nice words and the great analogy. Cheers!
The silent beauty of these photos is touching.
Lovely shots. You seem to have really captured the essence of the place. Wouldn’t mind going there myself one day!
You should go if you can – off season is best. Lot’s of great day hikes around the area as well.
These photos really evoke a sense of solitude and being at peace, such as in a state of prayer.
Thanks for sharing!
woowww.. thats just amazingly scary.. the pictures are gruesome..but beautiful
Gorgeous photos. I’d love to see this in person someday.
Great photographs.
Once I was hitchhiking through eastern Ohio and this guy picked me up and we drove to this town that had a church built on a huge rock; it was a Methodist Church and it was called The Church on the Rock.
These photos you made are about a Church IN the Rock.
“Hitchhiking Stories”
http://tim-shey.blogspot.com/p/hitchhiking-stories.html
great photos. keeps me from having to go and take them myself, you know. I could go with just my eyes and use these to remember – if a photo is taken well once by another, why would I need an image with myself it?
Very lovely photographs. I find the history encouraging…
[...] As previously mentioned, I travelled to Lalibela in Amhara state, Ethiopia to photograph this historical town. I knew the inclement weather would be challenging but it was just good to get out of Addis Ababa for a couple of days. I spent almost three hours wandering around Bet Giyorgis, an isolated Orthodox Christian church hewn from solid, red volcanic rock. It's the off season, so for this wet Friday afternoon, I was the only foreigner at th … Read More [...]
Beautiful shots and a very well written account of what looks like a memorable trip. The shot of the church literally carved from the mountain is incredibly impressive and reminds me of a similar one in India called Kailasa temple. I love the sense of movement in the priest beckoning the man in your 6th shot, it may be my favorite of the bunch.
Your photos are breathtaking! What a wonderful post : )
Beautiful! I would love to hike through this area! I love the black and white too… Very nice touch. :)
Really cool! Thanks for sharing!
Wow!! Thanks for sharing this bit of history thriving in a very old country. Beautiful!!
There is a really nice light in your photos. Looks like the day was overcast maybe that brought out the darker hues. Thanks for the images , they are really peaceful and relaxing.
Congratulations, John, on being Freshly Pressed and for capturing these fabulous photos! I find the synchronicity of your posting to be super cool, since just last night, the History Channel aired a segment on this very complex of churches in their “Ancient Aliens” series. Your photos give an even better perspective of what it’s like to really be there–thank you!
Beautiful compositions. The photo-essay sequence is well done and a very effective narratie presentation.
[...] As previously mentioned, I travelled to Lalibela in Amhara state, Ethiopia to photograph this historical town. I knew the inclement weather would be challenging but it was just good to get out of Addis Ababa for a couple of days. I spent almost three hours wandering around Bet Giyorgis, an isolated Orthodox Christian church hewn from solid, red volcanic rock. It's the off season, so for this wet Friday afternoon, I was the only foreigner at th … Read More [...]
I very much like that you chose black and white photography, it gives the images a more than appropriate ageless feel..
Wow, very subtly profound… these photos make me want to learn more about Ethiopia. Great job!
These are some of the best pics I’ve ever seen of Lalibela church! As a person who’s been to the northern Ethiopian province of Tigrai a total of 5 times (on mission trips), I could almost shoot myself for never making it to Lalibela. Thanks for these awesome pics which brought me back momentarily to northern Ethiopia, a land (and people) that I truly love! Of course your choice of black and white was a great one! Congrats on being freshly pressed!
beautiful page . nice post i realy like it
Fabulous photographs and what an interesting subject.
nice pictures
This caught my eye because I saw this church on History Channel’s Ancient Aliens series, cool! Great photos :D
Great photography, i like your post!
Amazing shots. The mood feels peaceful and calm — I especially like the shot from the dark hallway of the man in white next to the door. A great contrast from dark to light. Nicely done!
Eerie. It reminds me of the church from the latest Exorcist movie. Job well done.
I particularly liked the images ‘end of prayer’ view from the top of the end of the prayer, and the pilgrims coming out of the church; and the image of the church from below (7th image from beginning)… it is very deep and full of content: history, age, grace… loved it! I can tell you from experience that, that image from below (7th) is a very unique photo of Lalibela (different angle)… very few have made one like that. Congrats!
Check out what I wrote on the subject: http://africanlegends.wordpress.com/2009/09/13/lalibela-ethiopian-churches-carved-in-the-stone/
I particularly liked the images ‘end of prayer’ view from the top of the end of the prayer, and the pilgrims coming out of the church; and the image of the church from below (7th image from beginning)… it is very deep and full of content: history, age, grace… loved it! I can tell you from experience that, that image from below (7th) is a very unique photo of Lalibela (different angle)… very few on the web have made one like that. Congrats!
Check out what I wrote on the subject: http://africanlegends.wordpress.com/2009/09/13/lalibela-ethiopian-churches-carved-in-the-stone/
Great shadows and light and loving the stories each one tells!
[...] with 44 comments [...]
wow – phenomenal work here! I recently spent 8 months in Harar, Ethiopia :) – never made it to Lalibela but always heard it was breathtaking. Your work surely confirms that! Have you ever been out to Harar? There are incredible photographic opportunities there, especially in the Old Town (Jugol). If you have not, you should really check it out.
Thanks for sharing this!
As others have said, these pictures seem to capture the feel of the place quite well. I assume you were not able to go inside? or take pictures there? I would have been interested in seeing some of the iconography inside.
Bill,
I could have probably worked my way in but decided not to interrupt. Sometimes I do, sometimes not. Just a gut feeling I suppose.
Cheers,
John
Beautiful shots! You can almost feel the person behind each photo. It makes me long to see a place like that. Thank you for sharing! :) And kudos on being Freshly Pressed!
Lalibela has long been a place I wanted to travel to. It certainly sound from descriptions I’ve read, and looks from images I’ve seen an amazingly atmospheric place to visit. Your photos certainly have added to that sense.
I hope you can visit someday. It really is a cool place.
Thank you for those beautiful pictures!
I love the black&white which enable every soft structure of shading…
I traveled to Addis Ababa (for work) several times but I never had the chance to go around freely…
Another trip, from the southern, Kenya country, I reached lake Rudolph… but didn’t have enough time to cross over to Ethiopia.
I so much wished to see the blue Nile river falls… still I dream I keep in my heart since nowadays traveling in this part of the earth is quite dangerous.
Serenity and thank you for this great emotion!
:-)Claudine
http://claudine2007.splinder.com
Beautiful church. Beautiful photos. Beautiful, faithful people. Thanks for sharing your journey.
Beautiful photos! Abd a lovelly story, thanks for sharing :)
The last pic is amazing, a great vantage point and the white robes stand out great. I was brought up in Uganda more than two and a half decades ago and got an opportunity to visit Addis Ababa then, wondering what it’s like now. Enjoy and all the best. cheers, Bhaven
This photoblog is amazing! Purely stunning. The depth in each photograph is simple and objective yet captures the intricate detail. Very inspiring!
Very nice photos, thanks! Congrats on being FP!
Amazing pictures, well done :)
These photos are so beautiful! Thanks for sharing!
I’ve wanted to visit this church since I was in middle school and saw a few glimpses of it in an educational IMAX movie about the Nile. These photos are beautiful. Thank you for sharing them. It helped reignite my desire to go to Ethiopia.
Every picture on this was amazing…
its ridiculous how great a read this was.
Cheers,
Arjun Kay
arjunsmind.wordpress.com
Gorgeous prints- very moving. stay in touch!
lovely photos – evocative and still. Thanks
Your photography is stunning. Thank you for posting.
Really beautiful work. I’d read about this in history class but to see if represented by a gifted photographer is a treat.
Beautiful photographs. What an incredible place.
Amazing phtography…i like every photo here …this colour is my fev. it makes every photo looking ancient type..
Beautiful shots – travel is the best inspiration and black and white has the most dramatic outcome.
You definitely saved the best for last. Great use of b/w!
These photos are amazing! I don’t have a favorite one, they’re all touching. These were magazine quality shots (Time, The Nation, etc.). Thank you for sharing these photos and for teaching me something (I never knew about the Rock Church).
Very historic and amazing photos! thanks for sharing with us!
Completely amazing. Your photographs are beautiful and tell a story. And what an incredible place, I love taking photos of old buildings, churches, etc. I will be back to visit you often.
Wow awsome love it from Ethiopia
It’s beautiful. I have been always wanted to go there even though it is my home country and live in Addis whole my life. Thanks for sharing against the shitty connection we have here.
Awesome photos! I’d love to visit that church.
This is an amazing place!
Wow these are some amazing photos! I love them!
Beautiful photos. By the photos alone I would’ve never ever recognised this as Ethiopia. Stunning!
Wow! I love your pictures! Especially the third one :)
These are beautifully taken photos. They have a sense of serenity that’s never easy to capture in a photograph.
The last time I tried to get some natural shots in the area was rather a long time ago, and I was hounded out. Someone actually threw a wheelbarrow at me. Glad to see the locals are not afraid you are capturing their soul as used to be the case.
I ended up in Lalibela by mistake. I missed the plane to Addis from Gondar. Someone should have taken a shot of me chasing the bloody thing across the grass with tartan bag, backgammon board, and typewriter clattering around my legs.
Wow…beautiful shots…the location looks amazing…I think there are few undiscovered places like this left in the world….incredible
Beautifull photography!!! :) **
As a poetry writer, I am constantly seeking ways to improve my own writing. I admired your style of writing. It flows beautifully, and crafted with love and care in each sentence. Your photo’s represent your writing style in like and kind. Congrads on making FP. It was well deserved on your part. Thank you giving me the opportunity to visit a place, that I may never be able to grace with my actual appearance.
Awesome photos! I first read about these rock-hewn churches in Graham Hancock’s “The Sign and the Seal”, which is about the search for the Ark of the Covenant. He makes a pretty good case that it is indeed in Axum, Ethiopia. Regardless, the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela are impressive structures.
this is great
Fabulous series of photos from this VERY special place! My favorites are the last 3. Great job!
Beautiful photos.
great shots the coloring is perfect!
I’m a newcomer to WordPress.com and your blog is a great start in my exploring of the site. Stunning photos.
awesome!
Amazing photography, I especially like the entrance of the church. Remninds me a bit of Annie Leibovitz’s photo of Susan Sonntag standing in the crevice in Petra.
Photographs are awesome!!! :D
fantastic pictures. just wandering how long it took to carve this into existence. thanks for the pictures anyway.
A prayerful response to a sacred place. Cheers.
nice photos:)
is it truly orthodox?
greetings from Greece!!!
Yes, truly Orthodox. As Orthodox as you can get.
Cheers,
John
Black and white pictures are great!! :D
Beautiful! It looks so calming and special, it must have been a groundbraking experience for you! Absolutely stunning pictures!
amazing shots!
Beautiful! you’ve captured the stark beauty and the almost sacred air of the place in B&W. I’ve always believed that B&W photography, if done well, can capture the mood of a place and a memory very well!
Can a construction have a spirit… be alive….?
Thank you for sharing these beautiful shots !